Saturday 30/01/2016

The thing I hate more than being late for an appointment is waiting for someone that’s late for an appointment. Especially, when it’s the first time I’m meeting up with the person.

I arranged to meet up with a buddy of mine at Berta Block at around 3PM and, unfortunately, I was about 1 hour late. The reason I was late was because I had an interview scheduled at 12PM which was reschedule for 2PM and the interviewer never showed up. So as you can imagine I was quite annoyed and not really in the mood to boulder.

“Remember your last blog post.”, I told myself… “Just show up!”

And so I went. When I arrived, there was an ambulance outside the bouldering gym.
I walk in, my buddy greets me and asks me if I saw what happened. Apparently, some girl tried climbing higher than what she should have, fell, landed badly on her arm and broke her radius and ulna in one quick snap!

Way to start my bouldering session. First thing I told myself was to take things really slowly because today might be a bad day.

We first tried some easy problems to gauge the level at which climbers in this gym climb. Yellow, then blue, then green, then..I don’t remember.
My strategy: Start with the easiest color and gradually level up.

My buddy had not done a lot of climbing and so whenever he would get stuck on a route I would try to demonstrate how I’d solve the problem.
I’d demonstrate and he’d try to replicate. He would try over and over and over and over again..  and then again.. and maybe one last time… and then one time after that. I was impressed. He just wouldn’t take no for an answer.

The thing with climbing though is that it isn’t like a math problem. It’s not just in your head. You get tired, your arms get pumped, your fingers grow weaker with every second that goes by. So this dude must have a unique relationship to pain and fatigue.

I then found out he was a semi-professional kickboxer. If you’ve never done a martial arts class, trust me..fatigue and pain is a staple. You just learn how to work with it.
Athletes rely on cognitive strategies to help them tolerate more pain. And for athletes who take their sport to the pro or semi-pro arena, these strategies become second nature.

Bildschirmfoto 2016-02-01 um 23.46.14
“Train with the pain.”
“No pain, no gain.”
“If it feels good, you ain’t doin’ it right.”
There is a grain of truth to these statements but we also have to keep in mind that most of us are not professional athletes and risking injury for a hobby may not be the most heroic thing to do. Actually it’s quite stupid. But that’s my opinion.

Athletes learn how to move with pain. Movers learn how to move around it.

If longevity is important to you, then your approach to training needs to change.
Lessons of the day:

  • Try a movement 10 times in a row. Don’t say anything in between reps. No complaining. No cussing. No analyzing. Just rep it 10 times.
  • Perform the movement/route at a reasonably slow pace.. AKA Take Your Time.
    Not too slow, otherwise it might be too difficult. Not too fast, you won’t learn much and you might injure yourself.
  • Learn to feed off both your and other peoples small successes. Feeding off large successes is easy.
  • Learn to feed off your and others failures. Use the fury.
  • Never share your doubts with nobody.





Here’s a short clip of a myself bouldering

Eat, Move and Play!

Till next time..